The High Street has still much to offer those people who like old things, although much devastation has taken place within the past few years, by popular acclaim. The modern generation require "modern shops" and have now got them. When the author first came here there were still many shops with their original bow fronted windows but times have changed. Many of the modern facades however hide the original structures inside and there are some fine panelled rooms and staircases still extant.
A short while ago I was asked to see what must have been the last example of "wattle and daub" panelling in the town, which was just about to be destroyed to improve the shop. This certainly dated from the Middle Ages and in the floor of the cellar was an ancient "safe" laid with its back on the floor with the door opening upwards, probably covered with something to hide it. Many of these old shops have interesting cellars, which have, of course, not been disturbed much during alterations throughout the centuries.
The red brick house, now the Rural District Council Offices (No. 10 High Street) is of the William and Mary period and best seen from across the road. There is an interesting and charming water colour, given by the author, showing a "brougham" with coachman awaiting for two ladies, dressed in crinolines, coming out of what was then surprisingly enough a "pastrycooks" of those days. As I have stated, Mr. Adye's Garage, nearby, is old inside and is noted for the fact that when the wonderful steeple of the Abbey crashed during the night in 1480, the gilt ball from the top fell on this house.
The "George Inn" is a beautiful old Coaching Inn, and worth a visit. The old yard goes through the High Street into the Cross Hayes.
The "Kings Arms" is another beautiful Coaching Inn, with a wealth of history behind it. The Yard was painted as one of the "famous Inns of England" many years ago. A visit to the bottom of the garden is rewarding for the views across the valley of the Avon. When I first came the Kings Arms was still being run by the widow of the famous Harry Jones, who was so famous throughout the world that letters merely addressed to "Harry Jones, Malmesbury," found him. He was the last of the old Hoteliers and always dressed in a white "beaver hat," with bottle-green coat and breeches. He had the extraordinary knack of knowing all the "best people" and the nobility, and King Edward VII stopped to see him once when in the neighbourhood.
The old bar on the right hand side when going through the ancient doorway, was fascinating. Old oak beams, with a large fire, and settles and the most amazing collection of signed photos of all the great of his day. The ceiling was festooned with "squibs" of coloured paper, thrown up, or nailed to the ceiling, all very dirty and unhygenic, but these "squibs" contained money made from the local farmers for swearing in the presence of the awe-inspiring Mrs. Jones. Each section between the rafters was publically auctioned in the bar from time to time, to supply funds for the local hospital and one had to remember "who said what" at a certain time, and where the fine was stuck on the ceiling.
This was the "farmers' pub" in the days of Malmesbury's market of the Cross Hayes and I have often seen sovereigns changing hands from the old washleather bags. It looked much nicer, somehow, than the impersonal writing of cheques or passing of paper "notes" of these days. In previous days the actual gold coins were weighed in small scales, if they were considered to be too worn or damaged to be worth their proper value. In the 18th century, the old gold guineas were actually weighed against official "weights" for the same reason.
Now alas, the old bar has been modernised, but in the dining room inside the door, at my especial request, there is still the old brass plate well polished, beneath the bell stating "Boots and Ostler." I hope this is kept there for ever.
Further down the High Street, on the left, and almost opposite the Post Office is the firm of Messrs. Hider, which is a good example of what can be done by an artistic and publically spirited man in preserving what is left of old Malmesbury. It is the last of the old Gabled houses left in the High Street, and we owe him our thanks.
Only recently a new bank was built and a beautiful old "Dutch type facade" was destroyed. Admittedly the inside was worm-ridden, but all was destroyed to give the Bank architecture of today. Another shop was recently gutted and I was horrified to find some wonderful oak beams with "Tudor Rose" carvings and panelling were being cut up for firewood. It is to be hoped that the newly formed Malmesbury Civic Trust, although without any authority whatsoever, may be able to prevent further destruction.
Having seen what there is left in the High Street I suggest we walk back past the Market Cross to the left. One passes the ancient "White Lion" inn, the oldest in the town, of which so much has been said in previous articles. More history has been made in this hostelry than any other in the town, and it is said that the men, with specialised training such as carvers and superior stone masons, were billeted here by the monks when they built the Abbey in the 12th century. This Inn was, of course, very much larger than it is at present, and spread from its present position to the corner where is now the "cautionary mirror" on traffic control. The back has a 14th century portion, now belonging to the neighbouring house and it is in this portion that the unfortunate Hannah Twynnoy, of the famous "Tiger Stone Grave" in the Abbey churchyard was supposed to have been killed by the tiger, or more probably a lion from a travelling circus of those days.
I have discussed the portion from the "mirror" to the Abbey at length, but this part is one of the most interesting in Malmesbury.
Abbey Row, itself, has two items of interest. Beside the Old Bell Inn, which has been dealt with, there is Avon House (No. 25) with some fine Adams period work inside. The open space with the magnificent magnolia tree, almost opposite, has a history which I have mentioned in the Civil War period, when the site was cleared to prevent harbourage of snipers by the old entrance along Abbey Row. It is surprising that this was never rebuilt when one considers how valuable any site for building was even in those days, but perhaps the actual position, and possibly sentiment, forbade the rebuilding.
When pulling down an old cottage there recently, for rebuilding, some old "lacemakers' patterns" were found, but were in too bad a state to be kept for the Museum. Malmesbury was famous for its lace making in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and these patterns were made of thick paper, with slits in, rather like the old Pianola rolls of recent times.
To the War Memorial, in the place called from times of ancient days "The Triangle." Here we enter another part of the old Mediaeval Malmesbury although without the Walls. We have the same formation of squares previously mentioned and street names of interest. The old "Three Cups" still stands, and Thomas Hobbes lived at the smith's shop of those days. The old Castle Inn, was also nearby, but it is now a private house. The big "hotels" must have catered for coach clients, but how the little "pubs" managed, with their own brewing, to make a living out of the locals is beyond my comprehension.
Here we see the new Westport Parish Hall. Called "new" as it succeeds the beautiful old Parish Church, with its steeple already described, which was finally demolished after the Civil War. This was one of the biggest tragedies of the war, as it must have been a wonderful building and as old as the Abbey itself.
On turning left, one enters the ancient little square, called the "Horse Fair." This has been used for the obvious purpose for centuries, but it is a great many years since it fulfilled its original function. Many of the houses are of historic interest and are scheduled as such. The row of 30, 32, etc., to 38, are typical of the 16th century and No.18 is an attractive house.
Behind this square lie some of the really historic little streets and squares of the Mediaeval town. I have dealt with these, but the names of Blanchard's Green, Katifer Lane, where they used to iron the "cloths" are found here. Other ancient names are those pertaining to the word Gastons. Most of the streets, whether ancient or modern, have the suffix "Gastons." or Saxon "Gaerstons" meaning the green field, such as Corn Gastons, Poole Gastons, Gastons Road, etc. Although outside the town, they were the grazing lands of the inhabitants.
Shortly after this one enters the young and active Malmesbury, with its modern streets of council houses, modern schools and modern times, and seekers after old things will not stop until the equally ancient village of Brokenborough, some two miles away, and near the Roman Fosse has been reached.
So there we may leave a short walk round what is left of historic Malmesbury.
